On March 5, 2014, a new chapter began in the world of fashion as Nicolas Ghesquière unveiled his inaugural collection for Louis Vuitton at the iconic Cour Carrée in the Louvre. A decade later, at the same venue, Philippe Parreno designed the set with film production designer James Chinlund, and Nicolas Becker designed the soundscape; the maverick announced his continued leadership of Louis Vuitton’s womenswear at the same venue. “It is a true honor to continue writing the story of Louis Vuitton. We began the first chapter ten years ago, defining a new identity based on extraordinary heritage and a constant focus on innovation,” he told the press.
Throughout his tenure, Ghesquière brought the iconic luxury brand to new heights, guided by his own stylistic North Star. The designer brought a fresh perspective, bringing influences of the 80s and 90s silhouette with a 2000s touch. Pietro Beccari, Louis Vuitton’s Chairman and CEO, highlighted Ghesquière’s impact: “His redefinition of the Women’s Universe at Louis Vuitton, including a sharp new ready-to-wear silhouette, iconic models of leather goods and shoes, and numerous astounding destination shows, has contributed significantly to the Maison’s success over the past decade.”
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The runway show transcended conventional notions of time and space, bringing together light and dark, tradition and modernity in a way that felt both nostalgic and futuristic. Reflective materials and soft leather created a sense of fluidity and movement. The 2024 collection was dominated by blues and steel greys, creating a frosty and futuristic aesthetic. Drawing inspiration from past collections, the designs feature iconic House codes like the Petite Malle (a symbol of Louis Vuitton’s legacy in trunk-making), heavily embroidered jackets, sparkling skirts, and swirling asymmetric hems. The structured “pastiche” minidresses feature the Louis Vuitton monogram bag design. While Ghesquière’s design approach is strong, the references from his past collections were easy to spot – but definitely elevated. The bags saw new iterations of the monogram print, Trompe-l’œil prints, side trunks, Alma, and more. The East-West bag, Louis Vuitton’s version of the Hermes Plume, was a fresh addition to the lineup. The GO-14 bag from the designer collection is brought back with an elaborate metallic gold wool iteration. These pieces showcase Ghesquière’s ability to merge historical references with futuristic elements, creating a collection that evolved in confidence and focus as it progressed.
As the final models graced the runway and the audience erupted into applause, it became evident that Nicolas Ghesquière’s tenure at Louis Vuitton had left an indelible mark on the fashion landscape. At the heart of his vision lay a deep appreciation for Louis Vuitton’s heritage and savoir-faire. From sculptural minidresses adorned with classic trunk prints to the glam leisure of plane-ready tracksuits, each design reflected a seamless fusion of tradition and innovation.
